Now i've tried them.

Information and discussion about John Betts' unique line making method.

Now i've tried them.

Postby jlindengren » Sat Jun 13, 2015 2:45 pm

I have now made three lines using John Bett's methods, and also fished them some. I have made one #4 following the recipe in the book, one #7 copying a Snowbee WF taper and one #5 using Michaels recipe, in the back of the book, for a single sheet line with #50 backing.
The #4 i have only test casted, not really fished with (I have no #4 rod, but i intend to build one) but the other two i haved fished.

The #7 caused me some trouble first; when using it for streamer fishing the mono core kept coming out of the backing, probably beacause the stripping made me rub it "uphill", against the taper. I tried to solve that by cutting it and attach a shooting line, so it became a sort of shootimg head. It was OK fishing with, but still didn't cast as good as my normal #7 Snowbee line, but then i made the taper a little haphazardly, just adding a couple of mono strands hoping for the best. It migth just be to light for my #7 rod (a Garrison 212E).

The #5 line i tried to copy my favourite stream fishing line, a Snowbee #5DT, adding two strands of mono to the formula for #5 in Michaels tables in the book, to make it a little heavier . It came out rather satisfying for middle distance fishing, but compared to the Snowbee line it didn't work quite as well on short and long distance. With the Snowbee i can cast perfectly well with only two foot of line and a 16-18 foot leader, but with the handmade line it was hard to make it turn over the leader. Maybe it is my home furled leader that is to blame, or/and the fact that the two first foot of the line only consists of empty backing, and migth be too light to turn over a long leader.
I also find it a little hard to shoot line at long-distance casting, compared to my ordinary line.

I really would like to have this lines to function, i love the concept and the feeling and look of the lines. Do anyone have any tips or suggestions?

Best regards
Joakim
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Re: Now i've tried them.

Postby eclecticguy » Thu Jun 18, 2015 5:01 pm

Joakim, keep experimenting! That's what it's all about.

I suspect you are correct that the empty braid in the top is partly to blame. Try extending 2 or more mono filaments all the way to the end. Even a single mono filament will stiffen the tip of the line enough to make a noticeable change. You could also try adding one or more strands of 6# mono, again to stiffen and add weight.

It is tricky to try to reproduce an existing line. It takes a lot of experimentation.
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Re: Now i've tried them.

Postby jlindengren » Wed Aug 12, 2015 3:09 am

I have shortened the tip and furled a new leader, and now the line works much better. I also think the line has become more broken in, and as som of the excessive vaseline ("Excessive Vaseline", isn't that a good name for a rock band?) have worn off, the line is shooting much better.
I'll keep experimenting.

Cheerio,
Joakim
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Re: Now i've tried them.

Postby eclecticguy » Mon Aug 31, 2015 10:14 am

That would be a good name for a band!

Yes, I wipe my lines aggressively before the first use. You don't need a "coating". The other thing that really helps (and this is self promoting but since it is the only option, I'll go for it) is do a final coat with my Otter Butter. Do not use Muselin, it is too sticky. Otter Butter is a harder waxlike coating that is perfect for these lines.

Cheers,
Michael
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Re: Now i've tried them.

Postby jlindengren » Mon Oct 19, 2015 4:41 am

I've been experimenting along, and now i have made a line for lake fishing that i'm satisfied with, a #7, with integrated leader. I simply let the inner sleeve continue four foot over the tapered mono strands (of course compensating for the extra weight when designing the taper), and then let the outer sleeve continue two foot longer, making a 8 foot butt end of a leader, so i just have to tie a piece of 0,25 mono and then the 0.20 tip mono. (First i made a couple of leaders to try with my ordinary #7 Snowbee line, to determine the taper. A 6 foot piece of #40 Tuf-line in a 8 foot piece of #40 Tuf-line worked best. I found making leaders this way easier than furling. And if you skip the vaseline treatment you get a sinking leader.)

Using #6 mono, instead of #4, for inner core made the line a little stiffer, wich i like. The wax coating on the Tuf-line feels a bit sticky, but didn't seem to hamper the shooting of line. Now i'm gonna treat it with Otter Butter, and then it probably will shoot even better.

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Joakim
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Re: Now i've tried them.

Postby jlindengren » Wed Dec 02, 2015 8:59 am

Don't know if anyone reads this, but if so i have some additional info:
I seems like the wax coating on the Tuf-line somewhat prevents the vaseline to penetrate the line. My line began to sink. I boiled it and impregnated it with vaseline again, and now it doesn't sink. And the stickiness disappeared, too. From now i will boil the Tuf-line before i make lines from it.
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Re: Now i've tried them.

Postby eclecticguy » Thu Dec 03, 2015 10:08 am

Yes, I mention in the book that I remove the wax by boiling the braid before I assemble it. This also allows it to take the dye more readily.

If you boil the line after it is assembled, be careful not to heat too long and too hot (slightly below boiling should suffice).

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