Tapping Fixture

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Re: Tapping Fixture

Postby lightning mike » Fri Nov 26, 2010 10:59 am

Hello guys , I use Rapid Tap alot in my shop. I use it to tap everything. I have a idea for a tapping and drilling guide . Take thick piece of metal and drill a hole through it the size you need for the tapped hole. Then drill about half way through for the size of the part you are working with. Place this over your part and drill your hole. You should be fairly straight and centered . Now take another piece or the same piece of metal you are using for the drill guide and drill another hole through it the size of the tap(snug fit). Then drill half way through for the size of the part you are working with (like before) , place this over the part to be tapped and start the tap. Once the tap is started in a good ways, back it out and you can remove the guide and finish tapping. This should be as clear as mud I think.

Mike
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Re: Tapping Fixture

Postby eclecticguy » Fri Nov 26, 2010 11:07 am

Thanks Joe. Looks like an interesting site. I signed up to check it out.

Cheers,
Michael
My blog: www.EclecticGuy.com
The Reelsmith's Primer, reelsmithing materials, reels, lines and other items: www.EclecticAngler.com
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Re: Tapping Fixture

Postby dogcatcher » Tue Dec 04, 2012 1:34 am

I tap using drill press, a junk shop find that was $45. It still works as drill press, but also doubles as my tapping location. Then I made some custom tap holders for the sizes I use, these have a 1/4" hole through the top 1.5" that allows the tap wrench/holder to slide on.

Marvin
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Re: Tapping Fixture

Postby eclecticguy » Tue Dec 04, 2012 9:28 am

That's a good idea Marvin. Basically, you are using the drill press like this tapping fixture and turning the tap wrench by hand correct?

cheers,
Michael
My blog: www.EclecticGuy.com
The Reelsmith's Primer, reelsmithing materials, reels, lines and other items: www.EclecticAngler.com
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Re: Tapping Fixture

Postby dogcatcher » Tue Dec 04, 2012 3:05 pm

First the parts, a piece of aluminum that has been drilled part way with a 1/4" bit, and the other end is drilled with bit that fits the diameter of the shaft of the tap. The piece of 1/4" rod is steel, you don't want to use aluminum, it will gall and stick to itself, I know this for fact.

Image

Mount the 1/4" steel rod in the chuck of the drill press, slide the tap holder on to it, and you have the tap perpendicular to the item being tapped. I am using a piece of wood, since it was handy. But I tap wood all of the time for various jigs that I use in making game calls. Maple and Osage orange tap pretty good.

Image

This one is over kill, now I make them using 5/8" aluminum and I make the handles a lot shorter. The shaft of the tap is insert higher into the holder. I found that keeping the exposed shaft to where the threads start is better, I don't break as many taps that way. The shorter handles also keep me from putting to much pressure on the tap. I also use the same set up on both my wood and metal lathes. Since I started using this method I rarely break a tap.

The down side, you have to make one for every size tap you use. The good side, the tap is ready to use, no setting it up in a tap handle. I mainly use 4-40, 6-32, 8-32, 1/4-28 and 1/4-20 so each tap and die set is ready to go and is kept in each own box.

Marvin
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